It’s crucial to confirm what level of salt is actually required in your pool. Consult the chlorinators owners’ manual.

Confirm the actual level of salt in your pool.

Measure your pools current salt level by using a salt water test strip (available from any reputable pool shop / pool wholesaler.)

Refer to the FAQ below “How much salt should I use?” for the recommended quantity of salt.

Before adding salt to your pool, turn off the chlorinator at the control unit. The unit should not be turned on until the salt has completely dissolved. Leave the pump on to circulate the water and help dissolve the salt.

When you add the salt, do not pour it directly into the pool weir. For best results, support the bag in the shallow end of the pool, avoiding direct contact with the pool lining. The support could either be a sling support suspended in the pool, a plastic crate, old pool netting or even line the bags with bin liners. The key is to prevent the pool salt bag from coming into direct contact with the pool lining. The salt may take up to 24 hours to dissolve completely. Once dissolved, remove the floating bags and the equipment used to suspend or line the bags.

After the salt has dissolved, turn on the salt chlorinator. Check to see that the salt level is around 3,500 PPM. A high salt level above 4,500 PPM can rapidly reduce the life of the electrolytic cell.

If you think you need 10 bags of salt according to your calculations, only add 9 bags at first. Let it dissolve and retest your salt level before adding the last bag. It is a lot easier to add another bag if required, than to have to reduce the salt level from the pool if you have added too much salt.

Free Chlorine:

• 2.0 – 3.0 PPM
• Above 3.0 PPM may cause corrosion of pool metals.

pH:

• 7.2 – 7.6
• Use Hydrochloric Acid to lower pH and soda ash to raise pH. In a fibreglass pool, use alkalinity to raise pH.

Chlorine Stabiliser:

• 50 – 75 PPM

Total Alkalinity:

• 80 – 120 PPM

Calcium Hardness:

• 150 – 250 PPM

Metals (Copper, Iron, Manganese):

• None.

Nitrates:

• None.

• Avoid using salt with anti-caking or free flowing agents. Do not use iodated salt.
• Do not use Calcium Chloride / Potassium Chloride as a source of salt (use Sodium Chloride only).
• Do not use salt intended for agricultural use. The insoluble impurities mixed with the salt can shorten the life of the electrolytic cells.

• 4000 to 6000 PPM depending on the chlorinator make and design. 4 – 6 kilograms per m³ of volume.
• Low salt concentration below 2000 PPM will render the system ineffective as the salt concentration is too weak.
• High salt chlorination above 6000 PPM may cause corrosion to pool fixtures.

Rectangular or Square Pool:

• Volume = Length x Breadth x Depth

Circular Pool:

• Volume = (πR²) x Depth

Oval Pool with Straight Sides:

• Volume = (πR²)D + (2R x H)D

The most common causes of staining include:

• Prolonged use of copper-based pool products, including certain algaecides.
• Dissolved metals (usually iron, copper or manganese) in the water.
• Organic stains caused by algae or disintegrated plant debris.
• The use of borehole water in the pool.
• Incorrect pH levels.
• Incorrect total alkalinity (TA) levels.

Iron and Manganese Stains:

While iron stains are generally yellow-brown, manganese stains are a darker brown-black colour. Both are usually caused by the use of borehole water with a fairly high metal content. They may also occur if the pH and/or TA levels are consistently low over a long period of time.

Copper Stains:

Since copper may be used as an algaecide, many people use copper-based products in their swimming pools. Blue-black in colour, copper stains result from the extensive use of copper sulphate, copper ionisers in the water or from copper-based algaecides. If the pH and/or TA levels are not correct, the staining process will be accelerated.

Algae and Decaying Plant Debris:

If a pool has been neglected and algae has been left to grow on the pool walls, it is likely to leave a grey stain after it is removed. Decayed leaves (which contain tannin) and other debris tend to leave a slimy brown stain.

Low pH or TA:

The first hint that the pH or TA is low will be slightly green water. If left, it will turn dark green within days as it corrodes metal in the pool.

High pH or TA:

This usually indicates that the balance of the pool water has exceeded its saturation level. This results in precipitation and scaling.